The team is on the ground

I arrived a few days ago in Kathmandu. This place is pretty crazy. There are people everywhere. The first daunting task was crossing the road. Motorbikes, cars, tuk tuks and people all merge into a chaotic traffic blender. I quickly learned the trick is to move steadily in one direction and let the traffic move around me. A local told me that I would never get hit by a vehicle. I enquired if this was because they might lose their licence. He laughed and indicated towards the batons the traffic police carry around.

The heart of Kathmandu has three types of shops that just repeat themselves down every street. Gear shops, souvenir shops and money exchanges. I still felt obliged to look in almost every gear - this took about three days.

Yesterday Steve and Ben have arrived. We spent the day sorting out all our gear and making final purchases. The amount of gear looks like too much and too heavy. It's difficult to come around to the mind set of: We are away for along time, and most importantly, we're not carrying it!

In many ways Kathmandu feels very similar to Huaraz in Peru. I find myself having flashbacks to a 2007 climbing trip in that area. Just to make it authentic my guts have decided to reminisce as well. Hopefully this bout won't be as debilitating as the "happy stomachs" of 2007.

We fly to Lukla tomorrow morning. Ben spent a bit of time this afternoon sorting out a wireless laptop connection as well as a cell phone connection. So if technology plays the game we'll post again soon.

Back on the rock

Tony checking out routes on sea-cliffs of Earnsheugh, Aberdeenshire coast.

Steve on Necromancer, Earnsheugh. 
(Credit Tony Stone)

The week before I leave and it's time to wind down the preparation. So far I've spent long days in the hills, done some fitness, done some mixed climbing, climbed some ice. Only thing missing was some rock climbing. 2 days after ploughing through the snow on Creag Dubh, the Scottish weather has obliged by turning warm and sunny, so I headed north again, this time with rock shoes and chalk rather than crampons and axes.
The first few rock routes of the season can often feel a bit wobbly as your body and mind remember the intricacies of trad climbing, placing gear, finding rests and making moves above gear while pumped. I was with Tony Stone, a master at this sort of climbing, and great to watch learn from and admire his tenacity and fight as he hangs on to tiny holds, working out the gear and moves onsite on steep E5's.

It's also a sad time as I'm leaving Edinburgh, my home for the last 5 years. So it was great to get out last evening for a climb on Salisbury Crags above the city for a last time. A great place for a quick session after work. A couple of solos to focus the mind and some bouldering to work the fingers and forearms. Or just to watch the sun set over the city. It will be missed!

Steve solo on Salsbury Crags above Edinburgh. Photo credit: Viv Scott.

Viv on the crag classic, Black Wall Traverse.

Preparations down under!

While Steve has had the benefit of the European winter to assist with his preparation, the remainder of the team has been busy back in NZ trying to get the most out of an un-seasonally dry and warm summer. For me this has meant less time out on snow and ice than I would have liked, and instead has lead to a focus on longer alpine rock routes. This has turned out to be a blessing in disguise as rock climbing has never been a strong point of mine, and it has given me the opportunity to strengthen a weakness in my climbing.

Allan leading steep ice on the South face of Mt Barnicoat, on the 1^st pitch, left, and 5th pitch, right.

After capping off a packed winter/spring season by snaring two memorable climbs on the South faces of Mt Barnicoat and Mt Tutoko. The first involving the second ascent of a stellar ice line, “Lust for Life”, via a new direct variant with Allan Uren and the second a 1200m new route climbed with Guy McKinnon on Tutoko’s daunting south face. I then turned my attention to the Remarkables range behind Queenstown and headed out for a series of multi-pitch climbs on the local schist.

The South Face of Mt Tutoko. Our route linked a series of snow and ice gullies up the left side of the face.

The first excursion of the summer saw me heading out in mid January with Danny Murphy and Anna Ruotsi to attempt a new route up the wide spur between the South and West faces of Single Cone - in conditions that were anything but summer like. After savouring the breathtaking view down to Lake Wakatipu as we scrambled around the Queens Drive we were struck by a numbing southerly wind that was whipping around the base of the face. Eager to warm up and escape from the cold we quickly racked up and I lead what off on what would be the first of seven pitches we climbed that day.

Ben leading out through a small overhang low down on SW spur of Single Cone.

The line we took followed the broad crest of the spur direct to a point just below and south of the main summit. It started out on steep, compact and well featured schist offering great climbing before easing back and becoming less secure as we neared the top of the spur. Ending with two run out, scrambling pitches leading to a final sting in the tail in the form of a small head wall below the summit ridge.

Danny leading a steep juggy corner on the 4^th pitch, left, and belaying from the base of the 5^th pitch, right.

The following weekend and again I was heading back up into the Remarkables - eager to get back out onto the rock. This time paired up with Andrew Finnigan we headed toward the South face of Single Cone, where we hoped to find more of the compact schist that we had encountered low on the SW spur the previous weekend. The result - a new seven pitch route up the centre of the face, starting to the right of the winter ice lines and topping out on the ridge leading to Single Cone with a crux of grade 18. While the quality of the rock was definitely an improvement from that on the SW spur the climb failed to take the direct line we envisaged, as we were forced to take a meandering line following weaknesses on the upper slabs. Still a good trip out into the hills nonetheless!

Andrew leading the crux overhanging crack on the 2^nd pitch, above, and seconding up steep slabs on the upper face, below.

The promise of an extended fine mid-week forecast in early February saw me slogging it up the Tasman Glacier with Mike Rowe for our final trip out into the hills before we leave for Nepal. Our objective – the South face of Malte Brun.

A long day’s walk on the approach took us to a bivvy spot high in the Betham Valley from where we hoped to launch our attempt the following morning. And after an “Alpine sleep-in” we struck out towards the face hoping to attempt a new direct route up the centre of the face.

Mt Cook dominates the horizon as we scramble up from the Tasman Glacier, top, into the Betham Valley below Malte Brun, bottom.

The climb itself consisted of 16 pitches, with another couple soloed at the base, on rock which could best be described as of variable quality. While we encountered plenty of the solid and compact 'pink' rock, which the peak is famous for, throughout the climb it was interspersed with sections of loose choss. But on the whole it was a truly enjoyable outing typically moderate ground with a few tougher bits thrown in the mix to make things interesting and was a great way to form a partnership.

Trying to keep to the solid rock - Mike leading out on the second to last pitch below the summit ridge.

Topping out on the summit ridge at 7:15pm we then descended via the classic West Ridge in failing light to a bivvy spot perched above the Malte Brun glacier and continued out down the Tasman the following day.

Mike descending over the iconic ‘Cheval’ on the upper West ridge, left, and waking to a picturesque dawn at our bivvy above the Malte Brun Glacier the following morning.

Now finally back in Queenstown all there is left to do is pack…………..the most daunting task to date!

All kitted up and ready to go – Nepal here we come!

Well that wraps up my preparation and I am now eagerly awaiting my flight out tomorrow. Again I would like to express my thanks to all of our friends and supporters who have helped out along the way with putting the expedition together - without your assistance this amazing trip would not be possible.

Watch this space for updates on our progress as we head into the Khumbu!

Cheers - Ben

You don't know until you try

Previously, I have described winter climbing in Scotland as more like cragging than mountaineering. But it's not always that way. I'm writing this feeling completely stuffed after a day out yesterday that really worked us hard, yet we only climbed about a pitch and a half of proper ice.All the elements of a big mountain day were there. A 4am start, a long approach (3 hours) post-holing through knee deep snow, climbing sketchy, unconsolidated snow sloughing off rock slabs, dehydration. It's not always perfect ice and sunshine here. We went to Creag an Dubh Loch, a fantastic remote granite cliff in the Cairngorms. I had rock-climbed there in summer and had always wanted a rare winter tick. We were aiming for Vertigo Wall, a classic grade VII mixed route, but quickly saw that sun during the week had stripped it bare. Time for plan B.

Creag an Dubh Loch. We started up Labyrinth Direct, the obvious central S-shaped groove, before bailing left onto snow basin and ice above.

 We headed up Labyrinth Direct, which has a classic steep ice crux to get past an overhanging wall. I led off up the easier lower section, moving together up a few pitches to the base of the steeper upper section, ploughing a trench up steep unconsolidated snow. From here we could see the crux was complete with ice, but the conditions were rapidly deteriorating, the warming day melting the ice, as chunks peeled off the rock above and pelted us. The crux consisted comitting to a protectionless smear of ice on the wall, and with it no longer solidly attached it was an easy decision to bail and traverse sideways to an easier route. So a bit of traversing on snow-covered slabs, more snow wading, a couple of pitched of ice, and some digging over a cornice and we were up! Ready for a 3 hour walk out. All great alpine training I told myself. 

  Left: Looking up at crux of Labyrinth Direct.                   Right: James finally on decent ice.

More pics here: Chad put together a video of the day here.  It mostly shows me digging my way up windslab and the cornice at the top!

Scottish Ice Climbing

Scotland doesn't have big mountains, but it's hills have a long tradition of bold, traditional and fierce winter climbing challenges. They produce a fair share of top alpinists and after a few seasons, I can see why. It is a great place to develop and push your technical skills in mixed and thin ice climbing. It is esentially cragging, but can have a far more serious mountain feel.
Conditions are fickle and choosing the right venue or climb on the right day a real skill. It's been a funny season,  a massive thaw stripping back early heavy snows, though ice remains on the higher venues. I headed out for a weekend with Chad Harrison, heading to Ben Nevis on Saturday, we managed to avoid most of the crowds by climbing a lovely thin ice route, Observatory Buttress Direct.

Chad starting the thin ice groove of Observatory Buttress, Direct Finish, Ben Nevis.

We dithered on Sunday, but after a late start we headed for the cliffs of Lochnagar.

Lochnagar. We climbed a thin ice groove up a pale scar on the buttress in the centre.

We traversed under the cliffs, the line we had aimed for busy with 3 parties strung along it. We then spied a thin lick of ice at the back of a corner formed by a recent large rockfall. The guidebook gave us no clue if it had been climbed, or how hard, and it was intimidating, thin looking ice, framed by steep blank walls.

We couldn't resist however, as it was one of the most asthetic ice lines I have ever seen, and I soon found myself teetering up the thin ice corner, hoping it was well attached. It was more a mentally challenging climb than physical, sparse protection and fragile ice adding the the daunting feel. A slow, but steady lead and we were over the corner, It was now 3:30 and we needed to get a move on, so we moved together up around 150m of lovely ice to the summit, just making it back to the car for a lovely sunset. (More pics)

Edit: ScottishWinter reported on this climb, it appears we nabbed the second ascent!

Trip Report: Ski Mountaineering in Andermatt

My plans for some winter alpine climbing fell through due to work and partners bailing. So last minute I joined a trip to Andermatt, Switzerland for some ski mountaineering.

Alpine climbing requires a wide set of skills. However, as climbers it is easy to get sucked into doing what you are comfortable with and enjoy, to the detriment of other skills. If you don't like run-out climbing, or slabs, or cracks, or chimneys, you will avoid them, never improve, your ego is spanked if you ever get on them and this cycle is reinforced. On an alpine climb, you can't really avoid something if you don't like it, so it is really important to work on your weaknesses rather than your strengths, requiring you to leave the ego at home and drop the grades sometimes.

Rik seconding a classic jamming pitch on Hollendaren, Kvaloya.

So I've tried to identify my weaknesses over the years to make me a more well rounded climber. For example, I have struggled on small jamming cracks, so I spent the summer seeking out as many as I could find in Scotland, before a 10 day trip to the Arctic Island of Kvaloya, Norway. There we had pitch after pitch of fantastic granite cracks to climb (pics). 
Another glearing weakness in my alpine climbing skillset is ski mountaineering. This is utilising skis as the most efficient way to travel around snowy mountains, rather than zooming up lifts and down pistes. So this is something I've been working on the last couple of years.

Skinning up Oberalpstock, Switzerland.

So although I didn't get out climbing ice, I had long days in the hills, skinning up 3000m peaks (great for fitness) as well as improving my skills in getting about on skis without too much faceplanting. More pics.

Scoping out the best descent while skinning up Peak Central, Andermatt

Preparing for an expedition

We anticipate that these climbs are going to be difficult. To give ourselves the best chance of success, we want to prepare the best we can for them.  There are so many aspects that go into alpine climbing, building on years of mountain experience, gear, fitness, nutrition, mental preperation. All related, all important. It is easy to focus on one detail and forget something that becomes your downfall.

So this post will look at the bigger picture, all the aspects that come together for a sucessfull alpine climb.
Before we go, we plan to write a few posts describing some of the preparations we are making, and trips we go on to get ourselves ready.

The Goal
So what exactly are we preparing for? We anticipate that a single route will take between 2-5 days of sustained hard effort, technical ice, rock and mixed climbing, at altitude, and in difficult, cold conditions.

Mt Hunter Alaska. We climbed the buttress on the left, coming down the RH ridge in 60 hours of effort.

The best preparation for climbing big mountains is climbing big mountains. So I try and do this as often as possible. But when you don't live near them, its not always practical or even possible. So you do what you can. These are the things I feel are important to build up over the years.

• Mountaineering experience. No shortcuts here. You need time in the mountains, not necesarily on technical terrain, but the ability to survive and move quickly in mountain terrain.
• Techical climbing skills. The ability to get up steep, difficult terrain. Rock climbing, ice climbing, mixed climbing. It's hard to push these skills in big mountain settings, so getting out on local crags is really important.
• Fitness. Alpine climbs are very physically demanding. You need the ability to climb for a long time, and get up sustained, powerfull pitches. I prepare with long days in the hills, interspersed with short intense training sessions.
• Toughness. A big one. Also comes under mental preparation. It aint going to be easy. Can you hang in there when the going gets tough? How can you prepare for that? More to come on this subject.
• Gear/logistical planning/tactics. How much gear do you take? Single push, or bivvy? Your tactics can make a big difference between success and failure.

I will try and expand my thoughts on these, but let us know if you have any questions.

It's all go!

Welcome to the blog. At the end of March, Ben Dare, Mike Rowe and Steven Fortune are travelling to Nepal and starting our adventure.We are going  to try and climb new routes up 2 peaks in the Khumbu region: Kyajo Ri and Kusum Kanguru. This blog is an effort to share a bit about our adventures and hopefully inspire you to have your own! We will write a bit about the area, peaks and routes we want to climb, our preparations before we leave, some news when we have a chance to send it from Nepal, and some stories and photos from when we return.

This is all an effort to share information, so if you have any comments or questions, please do so by commenting after a post or emailing using the link on the side. Or if you have some useful info or ideas for us, please share as well. If there is something in particular you want us to post about, get in touch.

The reason this is happening is the generous support of Sport and Recreation New Zealand, who have awarded us a Hillary Grant, and the New Zealand Alpine Club who have awarded us an expedition grant. I Climb,  Icebreaker and  Leppin Sport are helping out with gear and nutritional supplements.
Thanks a lot for helping us have this amazing opportunity!