To High Camp again.

On the 23^rd we strapped our plastics on our backs and headed up to HC, planning to rest there the night, then launch upwards early the next morning. This allowed us to check out the route before the afternoon cloud. Rockfall was a major issue on our mind, the top half of the face looked steep and loose in the current dry conditions, the gullys looked to funnel any debris from up high. However the gully on the left of the central spur held ice, giving the fastest and easiest passage up the low section of face. After a close inspection of the possible route with binoculars and a walk to the base of the gully, we saw no evidence of rockfall and felt the gully would be ok in the cold of pre-dawn, planning to climb it early and move onto the spur before the sun hit the face.

However as we regained camp, the snow started to fall. This was no big surprise, we had experienced snowfall most evenings, but it got heavier and heavier as we sheltered in our little tent. As Ben went to fetch water, he got shocked by a static discharge. We sat and waited and made the call that the gully would be too dangerous with this much snowfall, and the pure rock climbing options too hard, so we sat out the next day and hope some sunshine would hit the face moving any excess snow. 

 

The opposite happened however, the face got zero sun that day and the snow started falling earlier than normal, and heavier, with large thunderstorms moving up the valley. Our patience being tested now, we sat out the day in our cramped tent.

 

To High Camp

On the 21^st, we set up with a load of bivvy and climbing gear, hoping to establish a high camp (HC) under the face. This was approx 1000m above base camp (BC), approx 1.5km horizontal, with some steep slabs, gullys, grass and scrub to find our way up. In our first couple of hours we tried going directly above BC, but found ourselves amongst steep bluffs, climbing moss covered rock slabs to avoid thick thorny bush. A little demoralised we spied an easier spur to our right, the base of which had what looked like an old campsite from one of the previous parties up the valley. So back down the mossy slabs and through the thorny bushes, we were soon on the right track. From here the scrub eased off, turning to alpine grass and lichen, then scree, as we slogged up towards the face.

 

Mostly the face was obscured by afternoon cloud, but as we approached we had short glimpses, confirming what we could see from below. It was dry! Our hopeful coating of post winter snow and ice was not present, it looked like a whole lot of loose rock-climbing was needed to get up the face.

I was a little disheartened by what we saw, but the cloud and snow prevented any more views, so we stashed our kit by a good looking campsite on a spur and headed down. It had been a few long hard days climbing more than 2500m up to HC from the valley, so we spent the 22^nd as a rest day at BC, preparing for launching upwards the next day. As we were not sure how the route would go, we took up a few extra days of food and gas to allow for multiple attempts or sitting out bad weather, planning one night at HC and up to 3 on the mountain.

Heading to Kusum Kanguru Base Camp

After our attempt on Kyajo Ri we decended down to Namche. We just stayed one night as we wanted to allow as much time as possible for Kusum Kanguru. We stocked up in Namche with a bit more 6mm cord and a few pieces of apple pie then set off.

Our treking guide Indra has a rather unique way of controlling us. We like to walk quite quickly and although he is extremely fit he was a little older than us. He would never ask us to slow down. We decended the 600m from Namche rather quickly and then at lunch Indra produced a small bottle of whisky. Then it started to rain, so Indra quickly produced some more whisky. The Whisky kept appearing until the rain stopped. We continued on after the rain significantly slower than we had been earlier. Job well done.

The next day we headed up the Thando Koshi Khola towards the SW face of Kusum Kanguru. We were unsure how long it would take to get to a position to set up our base camp. Indra had organised a local called Pasaang to guide us up to the head of the valley. Pasaang believed no-one had been up this valley for at least two years. He had gone up the valley 8 years ago and told us it would take two days.

The first day was on a well established track as people used it often to run a logging operation. It was quite amazing to see the pit saws in action that we take for granted are a thing of the past.

Logging operation part way up the Thando Koshi Khola

Resting after the first day up the river

The second day was off the beaten track. Pasaang had a machete and once we left the river he began slashing the bamboo and cutting a trail. Although it felt like Pasaang was just making up the trail as he went, there were times when we saw evidence of an old unestablished trail. The trail led us high on the true right of the river.

Gobin resting by the river

Bishnu carrying his load through the bamboo.

Mike and Ben using the "hold my foot" spot guide technique.

Our porters all had heavy loads and we were concerned about how they would negotiate some areas. We decided it was best to assign ourselves porters and help them through where ever neccasary. We fixed ropes in some places and in others just spotted them through.


Finally we arrived at a spot that Pasaang decided was base camp. We were somewhat dubious as he had indicated earlier that the base camp was a little further up the valley at a spot that looked rather flat to us. Furthermore the place he suggested to set up camp was on the side of a hill that was about 20 degrees! With plenty of looking at his watch he wished us luck and sped off home for tea hopefully before dark. We briefly considered heading higher but the reality was that our porters were absolutely exhausted.

Dining tent dug into the hill complete with bamboo retaining wall.

How do you set up a base camp on a hill? Dig. We made makeshift retaining walls. Ben - the structural engineer - questioned my choice of materials when I used bamboo as the uprights for the retaining wall. Ice axes out and down on hands and knees we dug into the hill until we had flatish - stablish platforms for tents.

Base camp was set up well. We thought it was a bit of a waste of time as we were probably only going to spend one night there. Little did we know....

Attempt on Kyajo Ri Northeast Face

We had almost a week to watch the face and decide the best line to take. We decided on a prominent gully system, from the top of the hanging glacier finishing either just right of the summit, or cutting back left across the face to the summit. The version to the ridge is likely to be that attempted by the Italians in 2009.

View of NE face of Kyajo Ri. Our route went up diagonal line of ice below glacier, then gully above triangular rock.

To access the hanging glacier, there were hard rock-climbing options (every night covered in snow) in corners either to left or right of the glacier, that avoided the threatening looking icefall. However, below the icefall was a thin continuous line of ice leading round the icefall onto a snow gully that appeared to lead around the ice onto the glacier. This was threatened by icefall, but in watching the face all this time, we had never seen any fall off, so decided to take this line giving a much faster and easier way up onto the face. We aimed to climb the line with one bivvy on the face and one on the descent, descending the line of our earlier attempt on the SW ridge.
We had 2 rest days at basecamp to let Ben's hand recover, during which we unfortunately had some of the biggest dumps of snow during our stay, and constant cloud preventing the sun from burning it off the face. In another blow, we woke at 2:30 on the morning of the climb to find Ben suffering from a Migraine, and unable to join us on the climb, so Mike and I repacked to attempt it as a pair.

Sun rising over Everest and Cholatse.

2 pitched of fragile ice brought us out from under the icefall onto snow beside it. We were in a hurry to get away from the hanging ice, but knee/waist deep snow meant slow, hard work as I ploughed a trail upwards, every meter hard won, but a beautiful sunrise over Everest keeping spirits up.

Mike climbing up beside hanging glacier icefall.

Finally onto the glacier, it was only 8:30, but the cloud was rolling in already. We had landmarks already sorted to guide us to the start of our gully, the upward toil continued in a sauna like atmosphere, the steep, deep snow interupted by a pitch of superb ice, then more upwards digging to arrive shattered at the base of the gully.

Morning cloud rising from valley.

By now a few snowflakes were swirling around, as Mike comitted upwards with a few thin sketchy moves. I yell as a wave of spindrift starts pouring down the gully. Even out of the main flow, Mike is smothered, unable to see past his elbows. A slight lull allows him to move sidewaysmore out of the way, as the first wave turns to a constant barrage. Our line of weakness in the face has turned into a giant funnel, concentrating those few snowflakes over the few meters we are trying to climb.
  

Mike before and after spindrift starts.

There's no way we can climb in these conditions, Mike hammered in a piton and lowered off to the belay. While we wait, the flow of snow become worse and we decide to descend.

We downclimb snow, downpitching the scariest section, and abseil ice back to the ground.

Mike about to start descending.

The next day is glourious weather, but to justify our decision we watch multiple avalanches pour off the face in the sunshine. The face is clearly out of condition. We are out of time unfortunately and we packed up basecamp in the sun and headed down towards Kusum Kanguru for our next climb.

Saying goodbye to Kyajo Ri as avalanches wash the face.

Packing up basecamp.

Hi everyone, sorry about the big delay between posts. We have been experimenting ‘technical difficulties’ with the local wireless internet provider and have been unable to get online since we left Namche on the 5th. However we are back in action again and back in Namche, after heading up the Gokyo valley to try tackling Kyajo Ri. Unfortunately due to a number factors; including injuries, sickness, poor weather and masses of snow, we were unsuccessfully in our attempts. However we had an amazing time and were able to gain valuable experience from our time spent on the hill. Now we eagerly await the chance to redeem our fortunes on Kusum Kanguru.

Anyway here is what we have been up to since I last posted.

Namche Bazaar to Machermo 05-06/04/11

Yesterday saw the team set out from Namche up the Gokyo valley to the small hamlet of Phortse Thanga, 3680m. It was short day so we took our time and basked in the amazing views of Ama Dablam and the south and north faces of Tabuche and Thamserku. The north face of Thamserku in particular looks to be in amazing condition and is plastered full height with a series of impressive ice lines!

Arriving in Phortse Thanga we were confronted with our first, and hopefully last, gel incident – one of the ‘big squeezey’ bottles of gel brought over from NZ, and carefully stashed inside one of my boots, had leaked and made a giant sticky mess inside one of the gear bags! So the afternoon was spent cleaning up all of the contaminated kit, and then it was off down to Dudh Koshi Nadi for a quick dip. Swimming in a Himalayan stream was one of those things that seemed like a great idea at the time – but refreshing would be the understatement of the year!

At Mong La enroute to Portse Thanga, left, and the Dudh Koshi Nadi below our lodge.

Today, the 6th, was another short one up to Machermo, at 4410m, where the trek was dominated by the massive bulk of Cho Oyo at the head of the Gokyo valley and we spent the day eagerly awaiting our first sighting of Kyajo Ri. Unfortunately the now typical afternoon cloud stole the show and we had to wait until a brief clearing at dusk to catch a brief glimpse of our first objective – the Northeast face. And from what we could see we were not disappointed! In the half light from the base of the valley the face appeared to be in great condition. However only time will tell and we are excitedly awaiting the chance to get a closer view tomorrow.

First glimpses of the Northeast face, left, and Mike with some new friends in Machermo, right.

Kyajo Ri Basecamp 07-08/04/11

I’m currently perched at 5260m on the ridge opposite the Northeast face of Kyajo Ri trying to get a good grasp of what conditions on the face are like. While there is a good amount of snow and ice present there also appears to be some blank sections – so we will likely be in for some mixed climbing too. The panorama from up here is breathtaking; as I turn around I take in the distant peaks of Cho Oyo, Everest, Lhotse, Cholatse, Tabuche, Kantega and Thamserku. It is truly amazing!

Mike and Steve are down in the valley somewhere below me with our porters setting up basecamp. We are looking to take half loads up with the porters today and then finish off the carry tomorrow. All going well we should be established at BC tomorrow afternoon.

The morning of the 8th dawned fine and after a leisurely breakfast we set off up valley towards BC, all the while taking in the impressive view of the East and Northeast faces of Kyajo Ri as the peak looms above us. The site for the camp itself is in a great position – at a height of 5050m it is perched on a snow covered terrace adjacent to a small stream at the head of the valley. It offers easy access to both the Southwest ridge, which we plan to attempt as an acclimatization climb, and the Northest face itself. After establishing camp we decide to take the following day as a rest day and explore our immediate surroundings – as well as indulging in some well earned down time in the tents. Time spent reading, sleeping and allowing our bodies to adjust to the increase in altitude. It also gives us the opportunity to become familiar with the local weather patterns – and while typically we are being blessed with clear mornings the afternoon invariably brings with it dense cloud and snowfall. The amount of snow that is falling everyday is becoming somewhat of a concern. As it will make progress higher on the mountain more difficult, with only limited sunshine in the mornings it is not being given the chance to burn off and is steadily accumulating. It is not all gloomy though and the highlights of the day definitely occur at meal times, when we are struggling to keep on top of the continuous supply of food that the cook keeps serving us. I thought we would be doing it rough as soon as we left the lodges down in the lower valleys. But the food at BC far outstrips anything we have had to date and with three course meals, three times a day we are being well looked after!

A porter carrying loads up to basecamp, left, and the view back towards Everest

Attempt on the Southwest ridge of Kyajo Ri 10-12/04/11

The Southwest ridge of Kyajo Ri was the route of the first ascent in 2002 and is now considered to be the standard ascent route. And it will hopefully offer us our first taste of real climbing on the trip and the opportunity to acclimatize to over 6000m before turning our attention to our primary objective.

Early on the morning of the 10th and again we set off to clear skies and hopefully the promise for more settled weather to come. From our camp on the Eastern side of the peak access to the Southwest ridge is gained via a col at the base of the Southeast ridge and a traverse across the head of the Kyajo Ri glacier to start of the ridge itself.

Leaving camp we climb snow covered boulder fields and a short ice step to gain the glacier leading to the col. With the deep covering of fresh snow progress is slow as we struggle with the reduced oxygen levels. But Steve does a great job of breaking trail and eventually we reach a final rock headwall which guards access the col. A short, step mixed pitch leads us to easier ground and we are able to move together and simul-climb the remainder of the way as the weather rapidly deteriorates into near white out conditions. Thankfully through a brief break in the cloud from the far side of the col we spot what could hopefully be a more direct route traverse to the base of the Southwest ridge, avoiding the descent down to the Kyajo Ri glacier itself. However as we were only able to catch a brief glimpse of the way ahead we are slightly apprehensive but we decide to continue nonetheless and make our way to a camp site at 5550m, slightly the below the base of the ridge.

Steve on steep mixed ground below the col at the base of the Southeast ridge.

View back the Kyajo Ri glacier from the base of the Southwest ridge.

Our first night out away from BC is an interesting one as we try to squeeze three guys into a small two man tent – but with a certain amount readjustment and some top and tailing we are eventually all able to fit in and settle down for a ‘snug’ night. Only to be continuously awoken as the frozen condensation from our breath rains down on us every time anyone moves! So we a glad to leave camp the next morning and make our way to the base of the ridge under the cover of thick cloud which has failed to lift overnight. And we reach the lower ridge without incident - which leads up from a col at approximately 5650m on snow covered ice to a rock band. Where I lead two pitches up moderate mixed ground, all the while struggling more and more with effects of the increased altitude. Which makes for exhausting work.

Above the rock band we again encounter further ice slopes – with brittle, dinner plating ice making for extremely hard going. But we preserve regardless until at just over 6000m, less than 200m from the summit, with conditions deteriorating to white out I am struck on the hand by a large piece of falling ice. Unable to grip my axe we are forced to abandon our attempt and retreat. The descent itself goes smoothly and after rappelling the upper slopes on v-threads we eventually make our way back down to our campsite from the previous night, before continuing back down to BC the following morning.

On the upper Southwest ridge, left, and Steve preparing to rappel on the descent.

After two rest days recuperating at BC to allow my hand to improve, all the while watching more and more snow accumulate on the Northeast face we decide that we will have to begin our attempt regardless. The night preceding the climb and again I awake from a broken sleep at 1:30am – the headache that has been developing for the previous two and a half hours becoming nearly unbearable. I take more painkillers and again to try snatch some sleep but it useless and I realise that with the onset of nausea and blurred vision that I am being struck down with a migrane. The symptoms of which are unnervingly similar to those of acute mountain sickness – I am forced to be cautious and make the extremely difficult decision to pull out of the climb. Leaving the others to go it alone, below is a detailed account on the attempt at the face by Steve.

Namche Bazaar

We continued our trek in from Manjo two days ago, arriving in Namche early on the afternoon of the 3rd. It was a relatively short day in but included a height gain of 600m, which gave us a good blow out as we slogged up the hill and helped with our acclimatization. We also had the chance to get our first real view of Everest towering over the Nupste-Lhotse ridge. And the back, north, side of Kusum Kanguru which looks great with a good plastering of ice.

Everest, left, and the North face of Kusum Kanguru, right.

Yesterday we woke to fresh snow, and saw Namche in a completely different light with the coating of white a stark contrast to the dust of the previous day.

Namche Bazaar, before and after the recent snowfall.

After relaxing for the morning we passed the afternoon by going for walk up to the villages of Khunde and Kumjing behind Namche. In Kumjing we stopped for lunch with family of Indra's, our trekking guide/liasion officer, where we dinned on noodle soup, fried chicken and a selection of the local fire water - Rarksi and Everest whisky. The skies cleared after lunch and the remainder of the day was spent playing cricket with some of the local children, with an amazing backdrop of Ama Dablam and Thamserku, before walking back down to Namche in the dusk.

Entertaining the local children in Kumjing.

Today we will continue our trek up into the Gokyo towards Machermo. Where we plan to spend a few days acclimatizing and hopefully get up Gokyo Ri before heading into Kyajo Ri base camp.

Evening light on Ama Dablam, left, and Thamserku, right.

We have arrived in the Khumbu!

Yesterday, after waiting several hours at the airport in Kathmandu for the weather to clear, we finally managed to get ourselves, and our small mountain of gear, onto a flight to Lukla - the gateway to the Khumbu.

After several hours of waiting and baggage weight negotiations in Kathmandu we were finally winging our way to Lukla.

The time spent at the airport was passed snoozing in the sun on the roof and arguing with airport officials over the weight of our kit. Which eventual resulted in a significant quantity of rupees changing hands and three disgruntled climbers stomping to the plane in plastic climbing boots! The flight itself was surprisingly uneventful, after hearing horror stories of previous flights, and persistent low cloud denied us our first view of the Himalayan giants we knew lurked in the distance. But we were quickly brought back to attention by the exciting landing at Lukla’s ‘interestingly’ inclined airport runway – an event within itself!

Arriving late in the afternoon we spent the remainder of the daylight hours exploring the small village in a haze of low cloud, being continuously entertained by groups of ever smiling children, before retiring to our lodge for the evening. Where after an interesting chilli sauce incident during dinner we began what will no doubt be the first of many epic card battles – which for the record was won convincingly by yours truly!

Trekking between Lukla and Manjo.

This morning we were up and off early on our trek towards Namche Bazaar, accompanied by Indra our guide/liaison officer and two porters carrying our personal climbing gear. With the remainder of the equipment due to arrive in Lukla today to be distributed between four more porters who will eventually meet us again in Namche, before we continue up the Gokyo valley towards our first objective – Kyajo Ri. It is truly amazing the amount of weight that the porters carry without batting an eyelid and even though they are small in statue their strength and good nature is incredible.

Our first glimpse of the South-West face of Kusum Kanguru - even though partially shrouded in cloud it was still an impressive sight.

Without doubt the highlight of the day had to be the fleeting glimpses we managed to steal of the South-West face of Kusum Kanguru as we passed by the entrance to the Thanadoshi Khola valley enroute to Manjo. Even though we waited patiently for over two hours at the base of the valley all we were awarded with for our perseverance was the briefest of clearances in the cloud that enshrouded the face. And although we never gained a full view of the face in its entirety the snippets we did catch were enough to fuel the ever growing excitement for when we return after our attempt on Kyajo Ri.

Tonight we are staying in a guest house in Manjo and will continue our trek to Namche Bazaar tomorrow morning.

Ben