Kiwis in the Khumbu

Hi everyone, sorry about the big delay between posts. We have been experimenting ‘technical difficulties’ with the local wireless internet provider and have been unable to get online since we left Namche on the 5th. However we are back in action again and back in Namche, after heading up the Gokyo valley to try tackling Kyajo Ri. Unfortunately due to a number factors; including injuries, sickness, poor weather and masses of snow, we were unsuccessfully in our attempts. However we had an amazing time and were able to gain valuable experience from our time spent on the hill. Now we eagerly await the chance to redeem our fortunes on Kusum Kanguru.

Anyway here is what we have been up to since I last posted.

Namche Bazaar to Machermo 05-06/04/11

Yesterday saw the team set out from Namche up the Gokyo valley to the small hamlet of Phortse Thanga, 3680m. It was short day so we took our time and basked in the amazing views of Ama Dablam and the south and north faces of Tabuche and Thamserku. The north face of Thamserku in particular looks to be in amazing condition and is plastered full height with a series of impressive ice lines!

Arriving in Phortse Thanga we were confronted with our first, and hopefully last, gel incident – one of the ‘big squeezey’ bottles of gel brought over from NZ, and carefully stashed inside one of my boots, had leaked and made a giant sticky mess inside one of the gear bags! So the afternoon was spent cleaning up all of the contaminated kit, and then it was off down to Dudh Koshi Nadi for a quick dip. Swimming in a Himalayan stream was one of those things that seemed like a great idea at the time – but refreshing would be the understatement of the year!

At Mong La enroute to Portse Thanga, left, and the Dudh Koshi Nadi below our lodge.

Today, the 6th, was another short one up to Machermo, at 4410m, where the trek was dominated by the massive bulk of Cho Oyo at the head of the Gokyo valley and we spent the day eagerly awaiting our first sighting of Kyajo Ri. Unfortunately the now typical afternoon cloud stole the show and we had to wait until a brief clearing at dusk to catch a brief glimpse of our first objective – the Northeast face. And from what we could see we were not disappointed! In the half light from the base of the valley the face appeared to be in great condition. However only time will tell and we are excitedly awaiting the chance to get a closer view tomorrow.

First glimpses of the Northeast face, left, and Mike with some new friends in Machermo, right.

Kyajo Ri Basecamp 07-08/04/11

I’m currently perched at 5260m on the ridge opposite the Northeast face of Kyajo Ri trying to get a good grasp of what conditions on the face are like. While there is a good amount of snow and ice present there also appears to be some blank sections – so we will likely be in for some mixed climbing too. The panorama from up here is breathtaking; as I turn around I take in the distant peaks of Cho Oyo, Everest, Lhotse, Cholatse, Tabuche, Kantega and Thamserku. It is truly amazing!

Mike and Steve are down in the valley somewhere below me with our porters setting up basecamp. We are looking to take half loads up with the porters today and then finish off the carry tomorrow. All going well we should be established at BC tomorrow afternoon.

The morning of the 8th dawned fine and after a leisurely breakfast we set off up valley towards BC, all the while taking in the impressive view of the East and Northeast faces of Kyajo Ri as the peak looms above us. The site for the camp itself is in a great position – at a height of 5050m it is perched on a snow covered terrace adjacent to a small stream at the head of the valley. It offers easy access to both the Southwest ridge, which we plan to attempt as an acclimatization climb, and the Northest face itself. After establishing camp we decide to take the following day as a rest day and explore our immediate surroundings – as well as indulging in some well earned down time in the tents. Time spent reading, sleeping and allowing our bodies to adjust to the increase in altitude. It also gives us the opportunity to become familiar with the local weather patterns – and while typically we are being blessed with clear mornings the afternoon invariably brings with it dense cloud and snowfall. The amount of snow that is falling everyday is becoming somewhat of a concern. As it will make progress higher on the mountain more difficult, with only limited sunshine in the mornings it is not being given the chance to burn off and is steadily accumulating. It is not all gloomy though and the highlights of the day definitely occur at meal times, when we are struggling to keep on top of the continuous supply of food that the cook keeps serving us. I thought we would be doing it rough as soon as we left the lodges down in the lower valleys. But the food at BC far outstrips anything we have had to date and with three course meals, three times a day we are being well looked after!

A porter carrying loads up to basecamp, left, and the view back towards Everest

Attempt on the Southwest ridge of Kyajo Ri 10-12/04/11

The Southwest ridge of Kyajo Ri was the route of the first ascent in 2002 and is now considered to be the standard ascent route. And it will hopefully offer us our first taste of real climbing on the trip and the opportunity to acclimatize to over 6000m before turning our attention to our primary objective.

Early on the morning of the 10th and again we set off to clear skies and hopefully the promise for more settled weather to come. From our camp on the Eastern side of the peak access to the Southwest ridge is gained via a col at the base of the Southeast ridge and a traverse across the head of the Kyajo Ri glacier to start of the ridge itself.

Leaving camp we climb snow covered boulder fields and a short ice step to gain the glacier leading to the col. With the deep covering of fresh snow progress is slow as we struggle with the reduced oxygen levels. But Steve does a great job of breaking trail and eventually we reach a final rock headwall which guards access the col. A short, step mixed pitch leads us to easier ground and we are able to move together and simul-climb the remainder of the way as the weather rapidly deteriorates into near white out conditions. Thankfully through a brief break in the cloud from the far side of the col we spot what could hopefully be a more direct route traverse to the base of the Southwest ridge, avoiding the descent down to the Kyajo Ri glacier itself. However as we were only able to catch a brief glimpse of the way ahead we are slightly apprehensive but we decide to continue nonetheless and make our way to a camp site at 5550m, slightly the below the base of the ridge.

Steve on steep mixed ground below the col at the base of the Southeast ridge.

View back the Kyajo Ri glacier from the base of the Southwest ridge.

Our first night out away from BC is an interesting one as we try to squeeze three guys into a small two man tent – but with a certain amount readjustment and some top and tailing we are eventually all able to fit in and settle down for a ‘snug’ night. Only to be continuously awoken as the frozen condensation from our breath rains down on us every time anyone moves! So we a glad to leave camp the next morning and make our way to the base of the ridge under the cover of thick cloud which has failed to lift overnight. And we reach the lower ridge without incident - which leads up from a col at approximately 5650m on snow covered ice to a rock band. Where I lead two pitches up moderate mixed ground, all the while struggling more and more with effects of the increased altitude. Which makes for exhausting work.

Above the rock band we again encounter further ice slopes – with brittle, dinner plating ice making for extremely hard going. But we preserve regardless until at just over 6000m, less than 200m from the summit, with conditions deteriorating to white out I am struck on the hand by a large piece of falling ice. Unable to grip my axe we are forced to abandon our attempt and retreat. The descent itself goes smoothly and after rappelling the upper slopes on v-threads we eventually make our way back down to our campsite from the previous night, before continuing back down to BC the following morning.

On the upper Southwest ridge, left, and Steve preparing to rappel on the descent.

After two rest days recuperating at BC to allow my hand to improve, all the while watching more and more snow accumulate on the Northeast face we decide that we will have to begin our attempt regardless. The night preceding the climb and again I awake from a broken sleep at 1:30am – the headache that has been developing for the previous two and a half hours becoming nearly unbearable. I take more painkillers and again to try snatch some sleep but it useless and I realise that with the onset of nausea and blurred vision that I am being struck down with a migrane. The symptoms of which are unnervingly similar to those of acute mountain sickness – I am forced to be cautious and make the extremely difficult decision to pull out of the climb. Leaving the others to go it alone, below is a detailed account on the attempt at the face by Steve.