Heading to Kusum Kanguru Base Camp

After our attempt on Kyajo Ri we decended down to Namche. We just stayed one night as we wanted to allow as much time as possible for Kusum Kanguru. We stocked up in Namche with a bit more 6mm cord and a few pieces of apple pie then set off.

Our treking guide Indra has a rather unique way of controlling us. We like to walk quite quickly and although he is extremely fit he was a little older than us. He would never ask us to slow down. We decended the 600m from Namche rather quickly and then at lunch Indra produced a small bottle of whisky. Then it started to rain, so Indra quickly produced some more whisky. The Whisky kept appearing until the rain stopped. We continued on after the rain significantly slower than we had been earlier. Job well done.

The next day we headed up the Thando Koshi Khola towards the SW face of Kusum Kanguru. We were unsure how long it would take to get to a position to set up our base camp. Indra had organised a local called Pasaang to guide us up to the head of the valley. Pasaang believed no-one had been up this valley for at least two years. He had gone up the valley 8 years ago and told us it would take two days.

The first day was on a well established track as people used it often to run a logging operation. It was quite amazing to see the pit saws in action that we take for granted are a thing of the past.

Logging operation part way up the Thando Koshi Khola

Resting after the first day up the river

The second day was off the beaten track. Pasaang had a machete and once we left the river he began slashing the bamboo and cutting a trail. Although it felt like Pasaang was just making up the trail as he went, there were times when we saw evidence of an old unestablished trail. The trail led us high on the true right of the river.

Gobin resting by the river

Bishnu carrying his load through the bamboo.

Mike and Ben using the "hold my foot" spot guide technique.

Our porters all had heavy loads and we were concerned about how they would negotiate some areas. We decided it was best to assign ourselves porters and help them through where ever neccasary. We fixed ropes in some places and in others just spotted them through.


Finally we arrived at a spot that Pasaang decided was base camp. We were somewhat dubious as he had indicated earlier that the base camp was a little further up the valley at a spot that looked rather flat to us. Furthermore the place he suggested to set up camp was on the side of a hill that was about 20 degrees! With plenty of looking at his watch he wished us luck and sped off home for tea hopefully before dark. We briefly considered heading higher but the reality was that our porters were absolutely exhausted.

Dining tent dug into the hill complete with bamboo retaining wall.

How do you set up a base camp on a hill? Dig. We made makeshift retaining walls. Ben - the structural engineer - questioned my choice of materials when I used bamboo as the uprights for the retaining wall. Ice axes out and down on hands and knees we dug into the hill until we had flatish - stablish platforms for tents.

Base camp was set up well. We thought it was a bit of a waste of time as we were probably only going to spend one night there. Little did we know....