On the face

After excavating the tent from under a covering of deep snow we made a descending traverse under the West Peak to where we hoped we could safely climb up to the ridge from just over 4500m. Where surveying our options we soon came to the realisation that we would need to focus our attention on one of the prominent ribs if we were to have any chance of success. As the flanking gully lines were awash with fresh avalanches.

Mike on the steep snow slopes of the lower face.

Early morning sunlight creating a striking halo over the West Peak.

Setting out in the half light preceding dawn – to ensure that we would have sufficient light to route find – we began to tackle a prominent rock spur that lead directly to the ridge at a high point below the West Peak. Initially we had planned to push for the ridge on the first day and then continue over the West Peak to the Central Summit on the day following. However after making good progress on the lower moderate slopes, as soon as we hit the steeper ground above, it soon became apparent that with the current conditions this would be a big ask to achieve.

Steve, left, and Ben, right, leading out over snow covered rock after gaining the base of the rib.

Continuing up moderate mixed terrain, through a series a steeper steps which provided more of a challenge, we steadily gained height but the covering of fresh deep snow made for tough going and we made what seemed to be agonisingly slow progress. All the while being continually kept on our toes by the roar of avalanches as they swept down the adjacent gullies - constantly reinforcing our decision to stick to the higher ground! Steve did an admirable job breaking trail and tackling several of the more technical sections as both Mike and myself were suffering from the adverse effects of the increase in altitude. And as darkness fell at 7pm, after being on the go for over 14 hours, we dug out a tent site on a small flat section of the spur at around 5300m and settled in for the night - still a good distance below the ridge.

Steve leading the final corner crack at the top of the rib.

Ben perched on the brief flat section at the base of the final headwall.

Failing to reach the ridge in a single push had all but ruined our chance of topping out on the Central Summit but despite this the following morning we again set off – determined to at least finish the climb to a high point on the ridge itself. After starting out to promising skies the weather quickly deteriorated and we were soon enveloped in cloud and climbing through freshly falling snow.

Ben leading the final headwall, left, and bringing up Mike to the belay, right.

We swung leads efficiently and after Steve sent a final stiff crack line the spur we were following relented slightly before merging into the face proper and we were confronted with the final headwall below the ridge. I lead a long simul-pitch up onto the headwall itself and then up steadily steeper ground in now white out conditions. A vertical wall of broken rock provided a final sting in the tail of the climb and then I found myself with nothing but open air in front of me. We had reached the ridge at just over 5550m.

Topped out on the Northwest ridge, left, and preparing for the descent, right.

Bringing the others up on belay my tools began to hum with a build up of static and after wasting little time to briefly halt for a quick bite and the obligatory photos we began our descent - rappelling back down the line of our ascent. Fortunately the weather cleared as we descended and returning to our campsite of the previous night we were treated to one of the most spectacular sunsets we had been fortunate enough to witness on the trip. A truly memorable way to close out the day and effectively the expedition.

Below - the highlights of a pituresque evening after descending to our top camp site.